They are kind of like cutting fingernails. This dress is made from a lightweight but firm cotton fabric and is beautifully embellished with silk embroidery and beetle wings. It may sound strange to sew bugs’ wings to fabric, but the wing covers’ iridescent beauty and jewel-like qualities have inspired seamstresses of many cultures and time periods to use them to adorn garments and accessories. Elytra are the hard outer wing cases of jewel beetles. The cream colored beads between the beetle wings are Mill Hill from my local embroidery shop. Probably not. The wings are made of chitin built up in thin layers. And even when imported textiles and goods did make their way to England from India, there has to be a certain adoption by many people in order to make something fashionable. See more ideas about Beetle wings, Beetle, Wings dress. Photograph is obviously not contemporary to the ball, but I didn’t need to tell you that. In addition to working in the fashion industry, Leia also runs a consulting business helping museums with exhibition mounting and costume reproductions. But there’s a green 1890s Russian Court Gown inspired beetle wing gown. Four layers of flounces, with jagged edges, that look like the shells, are also abundantly decorated with beetle wings. Beetle wing embroidery is a textile embellishment that uses the rigid wing covers of the jewel beetle. Beetle Wing embroidery - Embroidery Shop. Dovima-2010 has uploaded 37194 photos to Flickr. Cotton muslin with beetle-wing and metal thread embroidery. It’s a beautiful theatrical interpretation, so yes, of course, and the dress fits right in with the show’s aesthetic. Dress worn to a ball by Lady Jane Russell ca. Otherwise, you’re just the solo kook who likes gross bugs. 100 Drilled/Undrilled Iridescence Green Blue Elytra Sternocera Jewel Beetle Wings Taxidermy Embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion Design Littlewingsmagic. (Photo credit: Stephen Brayne.) Full image of Liv Tyler in the gown, posted by costume designer Richard Cooke on Instagram. The elytra of the jewel beetle to be precise. Aside from the above shoes, we don’t have any known extant Western garments from the 18th century that feature beetle-wing embroidery — the earliest surviving examples are from the 1820s. your own Pins on Pinterest They decorate not only bodice part, highlighting the small collar, but also appear on the bar at the long sleeves and cuffs. By The Frock Flicks Team on September 9, 2019 in Eighteenth Century. Harvesting beetle wings is as easy as sweeping the forest ground — beetles swarm when they mate, then they die, and their bodies decompose quickly. She travels around the world for costume events, academic conferences, and vintage hunting. 14" or 36cm across x 10" or 25cm high. Beetle-wing-case embroidery also became popular with western women who made gowns and accessories out of beetle-wing-case embroidered muslins and nets. The earliest example I can find is from the Great Exhibition of 1851, in which Miss Mary West exhibited a black lace dress that featured the “novel application of the beautiful beetle-wing … so much used in Indian embroidery, but seldom seen in any executed in England.”. The wings of the beetle were collected after the beetle had died. Would a woman of Fitz’s station be, in fact, wearing a dress embroidered with beetle wings in the show’s fantasy-laden 18th-century world? Very interesting and entertaining as well as learning about beetle wing embroidery. For at least several centuries, this type of work has been carried out in various Asian countries, notably China, India, Japan, Myanmar and Thailand. Beetle Wing Embroidery | Nomadic Decorator There are two different colors of the beetle wings; the flowers are done in the "coppery red" variety, the leaves in the more typical kind. These dresses are made on Indian muslin with traditional embroidery. Add to cart. Detail of beetle wing embroidery on white cotton gauze dress, embroidered in India for export, ca 1865. beetle wing embroidery of 1830-1832 Henry Art Gallery. But what about historical accuracy in the real world? Season 3, Episode 3, of Harlots (2019) features a dress with a bodice embroidered with beetle wings, worn by Liv Tyler as Lady Isabella Fitzwilliam. After months of sea travel, letters, textiles, and other goods were subject to mold, shipwrecks, theft, destruction, and any number of other disasters. For some real luxury, add these beautiful real beetlewings to your work... Products In This Category: Sort By. Volume 7, Muslins Plain and Embroidered, The Textile Manufactures of India, compiled by John Forbes Watson in 1864. Three historical costumers who decided the world needed a podcast and blog dedicated to historical costume movies and everything right and wrong with them. The vines are executed in gold foil strips, the small flowers in gilt sequins, and the leaves in beetle elytra. 1868-9. The Joy of Sewing has Returned!! I have mailed my last dress commission today. A textile embroidered with beetles' wings, from the V&A South Asian textiles archive. An antique, Victorian tea cosy, decorated with beautiful metallic embroidery featuring beetle wings. So why would a lady of means in the 18th century consider beetle-wing embroidery a fashionable feature? Beetle Wing Embroidery Collection by Gwenyver Costumeholic. These real beetle wings are the ultimate in luxury adornment for your finest needlework projects! They were, however, homesick for England, and so they continued to dress in the Western style, although they pragmatically had their clothing made out of lighter Indian cotton that was more suited to the warm climate. See more ideas about Beetle wings, Gold work, Wings etc. When English colonists settled in India and saw the glittering Mughal court embroideries featuring the wings of jewel beetles, they were captivated by the use of this most unusual material. The lining has some age spots along the bottom edge. I bought a bunch of elytra for a project, and they arrived smelling very strongly of mothballs, so I have been vaguely wondering if the insects were “ranched” and then killed using mothballs, so knowing they can be swept up from the ground is interesting. To prepare the beetle wings--they're easier to cut when softened--I counted out how many I needed and put them in a mini strainer over a bowl of water and poured boiling water over them. Use of eltra in Indian textiles began to explode during the Mughal era (1526 - 1756). Yes, you read that correctly, beetle wings. Did you notice the beetle-wing embroidery on Liv Tyler’s gown in Harlots? They are alternatives to stones. also, must’ve been terrible to replace.. but then if you’re in the beetle wing embellishment crowd I suppose you can probably afford it? 1827-1831 when she lived in India. 1867-1890, Hampshire County Council. 1863-67. Beetles, clearly, are nothing new. Shoes, linen with gold and beetle-wing embroidery, 1790s, Bata Shoe Museum. I work as Volunteer textielconservation at museum TwentseWelle and this dress is one of my favorites. She’s clearly worldly and cosmopolitan, since she casually wears exotic beetle wings. Tagsactual researchbuggin' outguest postharlotsharlots seriesHistorical Accuracynitpick alertomg embroideryRichard CookeTVwell actually. Indian embroiders clearly initiated the technique. Detail of beetle wing embroidery on white cotton gauze dress, embroidered in India for export, ca 1865. beetle wing embroidery of 1830-1832 Henry Art Gallery. Please practice hand-washing and social distancing, and check out our resources for adapting to these times. Off-white cotton sheer ground with embroidered design of a stylized floral spray. See more ideas about beetle wings, embroidery, beetle. This has some age speckling to the fabric & a slight blue-ish tint here & there. Eventually, more and more commerce grew around exported beetle-wing embroidered textiles. Article from nomadicdecorator.com. Probably made from an Edwardian skirt panel. There is a bit of surviving correspondence between two English women in India from 1784, in where one was interested in commissioning “several pieces of the thickest muslin to be worked in some small pattern in the fly’s wing, and gold, a leaf or something of that kind.” Eventually the letter writer did not end up commissioning the beetle-wing embroidered dress, but opted for silk embroidery instead. Kerry Taylor Auctions. See more ideas about beetle wings, embroidery, beetle. Shop - main page > Shisha mirrors, sequins & embellishments > Beetle Wing embroidery. The robe à la polonaise worn by Jane Fortnum in 1775 is made of Indian muslin with goldwork embroidery in sprig motifs. These beetle wing encrusted fabrics were created by local artisans on a small scale, but due to the growing trend in Europe, specifically England, of collecting "exotic goods" from the far corners of their Empire, larger industry centers were needed. Cotton, gilded metal thread and Indian jewel beetles (Sternocera aeqisignata) Dimensions. The tartan and the beetle-wing embroidery offer a wonderful cross-cultural dialogue in textile. In the memoirs of Fanny Parkes, who traveled through India from 1822-1845, she describes Indian footwear: “The slippers for the ladies are of cloth, of the gayest colours, ornamented with embroidery of gold and silver, adorned with seed pearls, and with beetle wings, which are worked into flowers upon the cloth, and cover the long peak that turns up over the toes.” This is a remarkably similar description to these shoes believed to be made in India for the English market. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! So back to Harlots. It was made in India and I found it in a random search of the museum collection at the Embroiderer's Guild in the UK. Beetlewing is known to have been sewn onto muslin, satin, net and organza. See details of every online item in National Trust Collections and check the Places tab to plan your visits. The stately and regal Lady Mary Curzon, Baroness Curzon of Kedleston and Vicereine of India from 1898 to 1905, was born as Mary Leite... View the On Aura Tout Vu Spring 2013 Couture show. The costume is regal, powerful, striking, and exotic, all fitting for Lady Fitz. If you own the rights to content here and wish it removed, please contact us. the shimmer is incredible so I can see the appeal, but I don’t think I’d want to sew them on myself. Search the shop Search. If there’s a material that gets costumers All The Points for incorporating a material that is a) unusual, b) visually striking, and c) misunderstood in the annals of fashion history, it’s beetle wings. 1926, decorated with gold embroidery and beetle wings. Ivory tulle dress, ca. They are both mostly green, but the ones in the leaf tend more toward purple, while the ones in the flower can flash copper over … Date. In reality, the first Anglo-Indian beetle-wing dresses, presuming there were others lost to time, were probably more like Jane Fortnum’s goldwork dress — a striking embellishment on the fabric from which the dress was made, not an application onto an existing dress. Several reticules in various stages of completion on different grounds. Clockwise from top left: Unfinished bag, nineteenth century, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; Bag pieces, 19th century, Victoria and Albert Museum; Bag, ca. Beetle Wings for Embroidery. Did the artist/journalist run out of steam and didn’t finish the dress? Gold and beetle wing embroidery. Sternocera aequisignata แมลงทับ, a beetle used in Thailand for beetlewing decoration. Crafting Scrap-booking Wedding Dress Embellishment Littlewingsmagic. Let’s examine Western fashion’s relationship with beetle wings and see what would, or could, have been worn in the real 18th century England. Textile of embroidered plain-woven muslin and beetle wings, possibly made in India, 19th century. For centuries, the iridescent wings of beetles have been used as adornment, from the ancient Egyptian veneration of the scarab beetle, to the Amazonian tribes that used colorful elytra and feathers to create ceremonial jewelry, to the “singing shawls” of the Pwo Karen tribes of Thailand and Burma (the wings are strung together like tassels and make a delightful tinkling sound with the wearer’s movements). Chances are infinitesimal that an aristocrat in England would be so ahead of the fashion game that she would know that bug parts could be effectively applied to her stomacher and neckline and bring out the It Girl she always knew was inside. Is it possible that in the 1770s there was a woman in India who was taken by the glittering local embroidery customs and wanted to inject that “otherness” into her wardrobe, so she commissioned an embroidered stomacher and neckline trim for her dark green dress? The style of metal thread embroidery indicates that it was done in Britain; it does not surround each wing case as it would have done if executed in India. Frock Flicks note: This is a guest post by our friend J. Leia Lima Baum, @jleialimabaum. Description Description. Supposedly this object was created by male embroiderers in India for export. See photos and get The Cut's perspective on the On Aura Tout Vu Couture collection, Beetle Wing Embroidered Gown, ca. Place of Origin. Category: Miscellaneous. It was common to be able to purchase pre-embroidered panels and sew fashionable dresses. The 5 piece dress is owned by the "Oudheidkamer Enschede" (Netherlands) and is preserved at the museumdepot of Museum TwentseWelle, Enschede (Netherlands). 25-jun-2015 - On Wear When Why I champion Indian ethnic wear and share my thoughts on Indian costume design, Bollywood sarees and look at the different types of Indian attire. Beetle-wings quantity. Favorite Add to 5 g. Real Iridescent Green Blue Jewel Elytra Beetle Wings Sequin 6 mm. Eventually the DIY craze hit, and actual beetle wings themselves were imported into England, and women took to embroidering their own pieces. I mean, the skirt’s embroidery is well documented, but how does that bodice-type thing even work? Deviation from metalwork + beetle wings + white muslin ground didn’t really start to come into play for a few more decades. Loosen your grip on your pearls; no beetles are harmed in beetle-wing embroidery. I fell in with the piece, and that love led me to the contemporary work of fiber artist Michael Cook. 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